Race Day and Floating Lanterns

After about 20 bajillion changes to the race day plan, the team finally gathered on the banks of the Mekong at 8 AM, geared up and ready to hit the water.  Our Lao teammates were no where to be seen, but we were quickly pulled into another teams tent for some very physical Lao dancing.  While the lack of personal space seemed to shock some of the other women, Kiki and I just went with it, having accepted that it's "Just Lao."

Dancing with the competition... friendly competition

When the women showed up from the village, Kiki and I had already pulled out my fabric pens and were bedazzling our otherwise boring blue team hats.  Focused on my arts and crafts project, I didn't notice that we were being served sticky rice, chili sauce and boned chicken... at 8:45.  Nothing like a good pre-race meal.  

Kiki busting out some handsy moves

Kiki and I both pulled the vegetarian card (well I guess I pulled it) when we noticed that not only was their huge chunks of bony chicken in the bowl, but the head in all its rooster head glory was propped inside.  While other brave souls tried rooster head, we distracted ourselves, stretched and finally made our way down to the river.

Thinking that the river was significantly more shallow than it actually was, I started my morning with a chest-high swim in the Mekong (and have since lived to tell the tale).  Dripping wet, I struggled to find a seat in the boat but Kibu quickly relocated me to the front, right behind the strongest Lao paddlers.  Bad idea.

Off we go!

We started off the morning unsure whether we were competing in four or eight races, but with only four women's teams on the water, four was the more reasonable option.  Our first race was rough.  The boat leaking from all seams, paddlers were out of sync and somehow people suddenly forgot how to count to ten.  Luckily Kibu didn't kiss anyone but was dissappointed none the less.  To our credit, it was hot, it was only the second time we had rowed in the race boat and the course was significantly longer than we had ever practiced.  But, enough with excuses.

Close races!

We raced twice more before pulling back to shore for a lunch break.  Shoulder unable to paddle anymore and realizing that I had enough time to quickly run into town, I grabbed my backpack and headed for the fountain.  Why was I leaving the scene of all the action, well, guess who decided to do a surprise-imprompto-birthday-Laos-vist?  

Yes folks, Simon is in Laos.

We met up at the fountain and to be honest, I was shocked he had made it one piece.  I dragged him across town to drop off baggage at the apartment and then back down the river to cheer on the team.  

Ten minutes back on the river bank, it began to downpour and the Frankenstorm of the Mekong opened up.  While the mud only got exponentially worse, it did cut the humidity, which is always a blessing.  Braving the storm on the water, the ladies finally rowed their last race and I, the newly designated injured photographer, cheered them on.  Alas, team Ban Sai Fang Neua is now 12 years defeated.  Success!

All smiles after a successful day!

Muddy and Mekonged, Kiki, Simon and I trudged back to the apartment to attempt to look presentable before hitting the town. Showers and a little bit in the AC later, we headed to Daofa, the go-to happy hour bar, where Simon tried his first BBL, sans ice.  (It's ok, but just this once)

Sticky Fingers punch riverside

From Daofa, I insisted we go and eat Sinhdad, the infamous meal inspired by my XK dinner failure.  You know, the meat, grill, soupy concoction.  We found a restaurant that would serve us and sat down.  Ten minutes later we were relocated to another table that could actually accommodate a grill insert and another 40 minutes later, we were told the grill was broken.  Thank you Laos.  By 9:20 I had fixed together Lao hot pot like a champ and in the end, it was all good.  Bor pen nyang!

Exhausted, sunburnt and shrugging off dinner frustrations, we decided to head down the river to witness the night time festival festivities.  After Brad lost both flip flops to an angry mud pit, we carefully made our way to the river bank, where people were lighting japanese lanterns and releasing them over the river.  After several potential burnings and almost killing a group of Lao people standing nearby, our lantern took off and added to the beautifully glowing night sky.  

Attempts at lantern lighting finally proved successful

Ok Phansaa, the name of the holiday marking the end of Buddhist lent, has several traditions, including releasing floral and candle arrangements into the river.  While I had planned to send one down, the mud looked too treacherous that I took the bouquet home to brighten up the kitchen table.  

Candle offering didn't cooperate with the wind... repurposed centerpiece?

We left the river and walked back into town, stopping to pay tribute at a couple wats and light candles in the big festival boats that were installed all along the road.  

Lighting candles and sparklers along the road

Clearly a big first day for Simon, but what can I say, this is Laos. 

Life is a glow!