Learning Curve

I think this photo sums up my everyday challenges here in Laos.  

Luckily sticky rice is eaten by balling it up with your hands and eating it as finger food.  What we're they thinking?!?

Festival of Lights

So I realize that Chanukah is only a couple weeks away, but I'll celebrate the other festival of lights when the time comes.  This time I'm talking about That Luang Festival. Held during the full moon of the twelfth lunar month, this festival is one of the largest in Laos and the most important in Buddhism.

Wednesday was a national holiday and with the day off work, I was determined to make my way to the festival to watch the procession and join in the commotion.  I was told that over 5,000 monks gather at 5 am to process in and receive alms at the That.  Unfortunately, I fell asleep at 9 pm on tuesday without setting an alarm and by the time I woke up, if was far to late to even think of biking across town.  Instead, I enjoyed my day off reading my book on the patio and later in the afternoon, met my friend Michelle for a drink on her rooftop terrace.

Pha That Luang in its golden glory

Feeling guilty about skipping all of the That Luang festivities, Michelle and I decided to venture over in a tuk-tuk to witness the 7 pm candle lighting ceremony.  The entire area was mobbed, but we made our way towards the That and were able to watch the monks lighting rows of candles that had been strung up around the higher steps.  By 7, more and more people had begun to climb around us, offering wax castles and flowers to the monks.  We tried to walk around for a better view, but it was hard to see over the large wall that was keeping the public out of the That grounds.  Not sure what we were waiting for, we went to go find something to drink and as soon as we stepped under a tent, it started to rain.  Before the big downpour hit, we made our way to a tuk-tuk and were waiting in traffic to get back to city center.  Despite the wet conditions, the Lao proceeded to try and have a fireworks show which was sad to say the least.  And I'm not blaming it on the weather.

Monks (in orange) lighting candles at the base of the steps

We made it back to town and decided to try out the Korean restaurant on our block.  To be honest, it wasn't as good as everyone kept telling me, but maybe we'll order differently if there's a next time.

Cheers to good friends and golden temples!

My Art Days Are Numbered

I finally got the drawings back from the art college and the poster is in progress!  Just to give a little sneak preview, this is what the drawings look like.  They're a lot better than my chicken scratch rough copies, although I know they would have ended up on the fridge anyways!

The goal with the poster is to both advertise and fundraise for the War Victims Medical Fund (WVMF).  This fund covers the cost of transport after a UXO accident, emergency medical care, family support and follow-up care with rehabilitation.  We are hoping to have the final poster up and printed by the end of the year!

  

UXO accident and transportation

Emergency Medical Care

Family support: food stipend during hospital stay

Aftercare including rehabilitation and psychosocial support

We tried to make these images accessible to a wide audience of both victims, villagers, hospital administrators, doctors, nurses, families of victims and potential donors.  I would love any feedback you have, just comment, Facebook at  Sticky Rice and Socialism or email me!

Breaking (Dawn Part II) Buses

After recovering from way too much eating on Thursday and the end of the work week on Friday, Kiki and I decided to plan a trip to Thailand on Saturday.  Since she had to do a visa run anyways, it made sense to do a day long adventure.

Having promised a Mailly family skype session, I was up at 6:45 am making coffee and trying to keep my eyes open.  Two hours and many faces later, Kiki and I headed out the door to the Talat Sao bus station.  We were hoping to catch a bus directly to Udon Thani, but because they only sell tickets the day of, it was sold out until the afternoon.  We took our chances of catching one once in Thailand and got on the local bus to the friendship bridge.  

Immigration was really quiet and we both made it through the border police very quickly.  We caught a bus across the bridge, filled out our Thailand entry forms and made our way through the final checkpoint.  We were quickly offered rides for $15 directly to Udon but instead got a tuk-tuk to the bus station and proceeded to wait for the next hour for the bus.  It wasn't as abad as it sounds because we got to sit on the AC bus munching on banana chips and newly discovered dried kiwi slices.  The bus finally left the station en route to Udon.

Just outside the city limits we heard a loud popping noise and were told to get off the bus.  Many people were shuttled into tuk-tuks and Kiki and I hopped into another one (our first female driver!) to the shopping center.  We're pretty sure there was nothing wrong with the bus, but that the drivers get commissioned to shuttle falangs around town.

We arrived at the mall and it was like stepping into another world.  The bottom floor food court had a Dunkin Donuts and the grocery store carried everything from Heinz ketchup to Kiki's favorite biscuits. Having very few baht to our name, we found an exchange counter to switch over some money.  The bank was very careful and insisted on copying Kiki's passport with the money we were changing.  It looked like a wanted and reward sign...

Wanted!

As planned, we went upstairs and bought tickets to go see Twilight, the only movie showing in english.  Kettle corn in hand, I entered the theater with VERY low expectations and I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised.  In any case, it was great to just enjoy the AC, comfy seats and big screen.

Not sure when the last bus was leaving Udon for Vientiane, we left the mall and walked to the bus station, stopping to take pictures in front of the Christmas tree and decorations.  When we got to the station, we found that the last bus was leaving in 5 minutes.  We got so lucky!

With her striped shirt it's like "Where's Waldo" Christmas Edition

The journey back was uneventful and significantly quicker than the ride there.  Now we know to catch the direct bus and get to Talat Sao early. We arrived back to the city around 9 and decided to try the new Turkish restaurant for dinner.  Perhaps one of the best meals each of us have had in Laos! 

We will definitely return for hummus...

Dinner Drivel

Just your average dinner conversation:

Kiki: "I'm so thirsty I feel like Jesus after 40 days in the desert."

Carly: "Jesus was in the desert for 40 days?"

Kiki: "That's what lent is all about."

Carly: "Oh! Well, the Jews were there for 40 years, I guess it just takes us a little longer sometimes....     Regardless, you stole our story."

Kiki: "My bible is your bible."

Carly: "Mi casa es su casa."

Thankful Thursday

The whole concept of hosting Thanksgiving started about a week before, when I found out that Kiki had never celebrated it.  Despite Brad resisting to partake in a holiday that inadvertently celebrated the exploitation of native americans, we finally convinced him to join in on the grounds that we were all thankful for surviving x number of months in Laos. 

After days of clicking around vegan foodie blogs, I finally decided on the menu for the evening (recipes have already been posted). I invited anyone who was interested to join in on the basis that it was going to be potluck, not because I didn't want to cook that much food, but because I only have one cook top in the apartment.  In the end, Laura came over with an amazing pumpkin bar dessert and a roasted pumpkin to serve the chili in.  Kiki, who helped me cook all week, ducked out of work early to assist and pick up some much needed Spy Wine.  Brad was held up until 9 pm, the latest ever, on a reporter who was taking his sweet old time writing the front page article.  We tried waiting for Brad, but eventually gave up.  With promises of chilled Beerlao upon his return he arrived in good spirits.

Nothing particularly noteworthy happened during our meal and it was a perfect night of friends and good food.  Being here constantly reminds me of how thankful I am for everyone in my life, but it was nice to slow down and actually celebrate it.

These were the only turkeys at our vegan feast!

Spuds 101

After debating whether or not to prepare mashed potatoes the day before thanksgiving (I only had 2 hours to cook, clean etc after work on thursday), I decided to start cooking them at 9 pm on wednesday night.  It was a good decision because the whole process took over three hours and by 1, I was exhausted but relieved that one more menu item was out of the way.  This recipe was really simple but the rate limiting step (science nerd?) was boiling the water.  All in all, these turned out great and microwaved to perfection in time for feasting on Thursday.

Very simple vegan mashed potatoes

Potatoes (approximately 2 per person)

Water

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

Scallions or roasted garlic (optional)

1. Wash, peel and quarter the potatoes.

2. Place segments in a pot of water and bring to a boil.

3. Cook for 25 minutes or until a knife can easy slide through each piece.

4. Drain water from the pot and allow potatoes to steam for 5 minutes

5. Using a knife, slice the potatoes until they have a mashed consistency. This would be easier with a masher (or mixer), but if the potatoes are soft enough it should not be a problem.

6. Add a few tablespoons of oil and work it in to the potatoes.

7. Add salt and pepper to taste.  You can also mix in scallions or roasted garlic!