Trick Lao Treat

First off, thank you to everyone who made this birthday so special. From notes, mailed cards, sabaidee pony balloons and trips across the world, it was a fabulous day!!!

Started the morning by convincing Simon that the beard had to go.  Not only is it crazy hot here, but walking around gets a significant amount of attention and points from young children.  All seemed to be going well until the electric shaver was plugged into the wall, sparks flew, flickers flickered and we were trapped in darkness.  If everything were to go smoothly here, it wouldn't be an adventure.  Dark is cool, but I wish I had a headlamp.

Finally got out the door and in a tuk-tuk for brunch at Kung's for the sticky rice mango pancake.  I decided it was worth the risk to trek across town, as so many shops are closed now due to the festival.  Luckily it was open and we enjoyed a lovely and peaceful meal among the vines.  

Birthday brunching at the little oasis that is Kung's cafe

Left the restaurant and walked across the street to Wat Simuang, the stork wat.  Simon immediately yelled at me for walking too fast and had to remind me that it was his first time at all of these sites.  Stork was cool as usual, although it seemed bigger.  Perhaps he too was in festival mode.

We decided to venture to That Luang, the golden stupa and one of the most famous landmarks in Vientiane.  I struggled to communicate with the Tuk-tuk driver but finally understood that he wanted to wait for us and bring us back to town after.  It certainly wasn't a busy work day but I was happy to have secured a non-BeerLaoed driver for the afternoon.

Pha That Luang

The golden stupa was beautiful and although the weather the hot and sticky, the quiet atmosphere and magnificent Lao style murals and architecture was beautiful.  We walked into the main temple then made our way to the stupa, which is closed off.  Was able to walk around the grounds, after I had covered up my knees for discretion.  I must say I was offended that they did not ask the male german tourists sporting speedo-esque shorts to cover up.  I guess its a culture thing.

Outside That Luang

Having photographed every possible angle of the temple, we tuk-tuked back into town for a drink and some errands.  Ran into Brad and Kiki and agreed to start birthday celebrations around 7 at a place of their choosing.  Made Simon get a beard trim at local "spa" for 15,000 Kip ($1.75) and he willingly put his neck in the hands of a Lao woman with a very sharp blade.

We made our way back home, enjoyed a couple laughs with the drunk security guards (who had started with BBL at 10) and got dressed in birthday attire in the dark.  

Running late, well, running Lao, we rushed outside only to be stopped by security for a couple drinks.  I told them it was my birthday and they guessed I was 32!!! Whoa there. They were very surprised I was only 22. 

Met Brad, Kiki, Dan and Steve-O at 3 Nightclub where they had already downed a couple liters of BBL.  Ordered a "cocktail" and told them to make it good for my birthday.  Twenty minutes later, they returned to ask what I wanted.  I went for the Mai-Tai, now termed Mai-Lao for old times sake.  Kiki and Brad had surprised me with cupcakes and a creepy pony balloon.  Whats better than fruity drinks, cupcakes, and dragon painted ponies?!?!

Sabaidee pony!

Made friends at the bar including Big Big, the only Lao tattoo artist in Vientiane.  Got his number and he saved mine on the landline phone he carries in his pocket.  Zero intention of ever getting a tattoo. EVER.

I went to go introduce myself to the live band, the Dreamers and returned to find another girl at the table.  Kayln, a german traveller, made herself comfortable and joined the party! When in Laos!!!

Cheers! Or in Lao, Mot!

Ordered the bill and headed to Via Via for pizza.  Satisfied vegan cravings and enjoyed lots of laughs while allowing Sabaidee pony balloon to trot around the table.  Birthday shenanigans.

Decided to head to Khong Khao Halloween party across town titled Hellfire.  It took a long time to find a tuk-tuk to drive the five of us and even longer to explain where we wanted to go.  After many laughs and Lao language struggles, we finally arrived at KK where the party was only starting.  

Sat outside on the patio, making friends with random ex-pats and dancing to horrible music.  Enjoyed people watching and being ridiculous with Kiki and new German friend.  

This is why we're friends.

Unable to handle the music and not interested in getting pulled into dance by Lao vampires, we called it a night and walked back to the main road to find a ride into town.  Finally hailed a tuk-tuk and were escorted home, back to the drunken security, comfort of the AC and pitch darkness.  

The best birthdays come in Lao packages. 

XOXO Carly

What's a birthday without pumpkins?!?!

Race Day and Floating Lanterns

After about 20 bajillion changes to the race day plan, the team finally gathered on the banks of the Mekong at 8 AM, geared up and ready to hit the water.  Our Lao teammates were no where to be seen, but we were quickly pulled into another teams tent for some very physical Lao dancing.  While the lack of personal space seemed to shock some of the other women, Kiki and I just went with it, having accepted that it's "Just Lao."

Dancing with the competition... friendly competition

When the women showed up from the village, Kiki and I had already pulled out my fabric pens and were bedazzling our otherwise boring blue team hats.  Focused on my arts and crafts project, I didn't notice that we were being served sticky rice, chili sauce and boned chicken... at 8:45.  Nothing like a good pre-race meal.  

Kiki busting out some handsy moves

Kiki and I both pulled the vegetarian card (well I guess I pulled it) when we noticed that not only was their huge chunks of bony chicken in the bowl, but the head in all its rooster head glory was propped inside.  While other brave souls tried rooster head, we distracted ourselves, stretched and finally made our way down to the river.

Thinking that the river was significantly more shallow than it actually was, I started my morning with a chest-high swim in the Mekong (and have since lived to tell the tale).  Dripping wet, I struggled to find a seat in the boat but Kibu quickly relocated me to the front, right behind the strongest Lao paddlers.  Bad idea.

Off we go!

We started off the morning unsure whether we were competing in four or eight races, but with only four women's teams on the water, four was the more reasonable option.  Our first race was rough.  The boat leaking from all seams, paddlers were out of sync and somehow people suddenly forgot how to count to ten.  Luckily Kibu didn't kiss anyone but was dissappointed none the less.  To our credit, it was hot, it was only the second time we had rowed in the race boat and the course was significantly longer than we had ever practiced.  But, enough with excuses.

Close races!

We raced twice more before pulling back to shore for a lunch break.  Shoulder unable to paddle anymore and realizing that I had enough time to quickly run into town, I grabbed my backpack and headed for the fountain.  Why was I leaving the scene of all the action, well, guess who decided to do a surprise-imprompto-birthday-Laos-vist?  

Yes folks, Simon is in Laos.

We met up at the fountain and to be honest, I was shocked he had made it one piece.  I dragged him across town to drop off baggage at the apartment and then back down the river to cheer on the team.  

Ten minutes back on the river bank, it began to downpour and the Frankenstorm of the Mekong opened up.  While the mud only got exponentially worse, it did cut the humidity, which is always a blessing.  Braving the storm on the water, the ladies finally rowed their last race and I, the newly designated injured photographer, cheered them on.  Alas, team Ban Sai Fang Neua is now 12 years defeated.  Success!

All smiles after a successful day!

Muddy and Mekonged, Kiki, Simon and I trudged back to the apartment to attempt to look presentable before hitting the town. Showers and a little bit in the AC later, we headed to Daofa, the go-to happy hour bar, where Simon tried his first BBL, sans ice.  (It's ok, but just this once)

Sticky Fingers punch riverside

From Daofa, I insisted we go and eat Sinhdad, the infamous meal inspired by my XK dinner failure.  You know, the meat, grill, soupy concoction.  We found a restaurant that would serve us and sat down.  Ten minutes later we were relocated to another table that could actually accommodate a grill insert and another 40 minutes later, we were told the grill was broken.  Thank you Laos.  By 9:20 I had fixed together Lao hot pot like a champ and in the end, it was all good.  Bor pen nyang!

Exhausted, sunburnt and shrugging off dinner frustrations, we decided to head down the river to witness the night time festival festivities.  After Brad lost both flip flops to an angry mud pit, we carefully made our way to the river bank, where people were lighting japanese lanterns and releasing them over the river.  After several potential burnings and almost killing a group of Lao people standing nearby, our lantern took off and added to the beautifully glowing night sky.  

Attempts at lantern lighting finally proved successful

Ok Phansaa, the name of the holiday marking the end of Buddhist lent, has several traditions, including releasing floral and candle arrangements into the river.  While I had planned to send one down, the mud looked too treacherous that I took the bouquet home to brighten up the kitchen table.  

Candle offering didn't cooperate with the wind... repurposed centerpiece?

We left the river and walked back into town, stopping to pay tribute at a couple wats and light candles in the big festival boats that were installed all along the road.  

Lighting candles and sparklers along the road

Clearly a big first day for Simon, but what can I say, this is Laos. 

Life is a glow!

Stamped and Dipped

After five missed calls this morning from Viengmany, I finally called her back and agreed to a noon pick up for our Thailand adventure.

She showed up and we drove to the Friendship Bridge somehow avoiding all of the traffic from boat racing preparations. Her goal was shopping for the household essentials, I was just along for the ride.  Most people use the bridge to renew their visas (Kiki etc.), but I lucked out and have a government issued multiple entry visa, so entering/exiting the country is free and relatively easy. 

The friendship bridge is about 20 minutes outside the city and crosses into Nong Khai, Thailand.  We parked the car, exchanged some money and got in line to exit Laos.  On the other side, we bought a bus ticket, paid a departure fee and boarded the bus to Thailand.  Five minutes later, we got off, passed through another set of lines with a separate set of paperwork and were shuttled into a doisan for the shopping center.  

We walked into the mall and it was mobbed.  The first thing I saw was a Starbucks.  See, it's just like home over here!  Making our way through the crowd we made our way to Tesco, the Walmart of Thailand.  And it literally had everything! It was crazy!!!!

I loaded up on some daily essentials but was so overwhelmed by the experience (and dreading carrying anything back on the bus) to buy much.  The highlight of the trip came when I saw a DAIRY QUEEN.  Yes, Mom, if you hadn't decided to come visit yet, you now have no excuse.  I must say, the dipped cone hit the spot (no Buster Bars, sorry).

Viengmany bought so much that we had to find help to load it back into a doisan and then onto the bus to the border.  Somewhere between Thai border patrol and getting back on the bus to get across the bridge I lost my bus ticket, but clearly I look flustered and after giving the guy the lower lip, he let me get on the bus.  

We made it across and waited in a long line of Lao people to get back into Laos.  Surprisingly I had no problems with my visas and I can safely say I survived by first border crossing!

Viengmany drove me back into the city and dropped me at home.  Kiki and Brad might come over later for dinner, but since it's a work night, we won't be out late.  Such responsible adults...

Vientiane on Steroids

After a long morning on the road from Vang Vieng, it was nice to get home.  I unpacked the myriad of fruits and vegetables we had picked up from roadside vendors and called Patty the cat lady who was planning on driving me to Kiki's to pick up Sok Dee.  

We met up at Monument Books, the landmark ex-pat bookstore downtown and drove to Km 4, making a quick stop at the vet to visit a dog who had been hit by a motor bike.  Not only was the dog having trouble walking, but it had rope burns around it's neck, suggesting it had been dragged, probably to the Vietnamese dog market.  He was a lucky guy!

Brad greeted us at the gate and I took Sok and all of her things back to the car.  We were running late and I had told Fulvia, the Italian couchsurfer I was hosting that I would meet her at the fountain at 5.  I had Patty drop me off there and greeted Fulvia cat in tow.  Luckily she loved Sok and the last two days were full of cat snuggling and playing.

We walked back the the apartment and I let Fulvia unpack her things.  She just finished her masters in Anthropology and is now on a 5 month trip around Asia.  While she began in South East Asia, she plans on hitting India, Iran and finally making the journey back to Trieste, Italy. It was great to hear about her travels and give her my little knowledge about Laos.

When Kiki got out of work at 6, we headed to the Vientiane Times to pick her up for dinner on the town.  Since I left the city, the main road in Vientiane has been shut down for a huge market and carnival that is supposed to continue until after Boat Racing festival on the 31st.  Now the city is congested (both with people and traffic) and loud. Certainly not the Vientiane I'm used to.

We met up with Kiki and walked to the Backpacker's Hostel, where two acquaintances of hers were spending the night.  They all downed a BBL and we left to join the chaos.  Kiki had already decided it was an Aashifa night, and since the wait staff already knows us there, and is aware of the vegan limitations, its always a pleasant experience.  The five of us split a couple veg dishes and it was delicious.

Deciding not to venture to another bar, Fulvia and I split from the group and ventured into the crowd.  The atmosphere is like night market on steroids, or the Big E Asia Style (and crammed on to one main street).  There are vendors selling any "Made in China" thing you could imagine, carnival rides, food stalls and more people than you could count.  There were also two music festivals happening next to each other and it quickly became a competition for sound.

We wandered around for a little while, then got overwhelmed, picked up cat food, and headed home.  Having not had a non-hostel shower in a long time, Fulvia enjoyed the accommodations of home, and of course, Sok Dee.  We called it an early night and decided to make plans the next morning.

After catching up on some facebook and skyping, we decided to go to COPE and grab brunch together before I had to head to my final boat racing practice.  COPE is an organization based in Vientiane that provides medical and psychological support to UXO victims and people with other disabilities.  The visitor center was a must-see and gave me some ideas about how to make our own center (the QLA) more user friendly.  Kiki met us there and we all biked over to Kung's for brunch.  

Kung's is famous for the sticky rice mango pancake so I told Fulvia she had to try it.  Kiki took the opportunity to finally try the Phat Lao, which is a lot like Pad Thai but without the egg (vegan success!)  While the service isn't the fastest, the food always hits the spot and since we didn't have to be anywhere until 1:45, there was plenty of time.

Fulvia and I at Kung's eating oasis

From Kung's, we biked the three blocks to Mark and Nancy's apartment (my old stomping grounds) and waited for Terry who was picking us up for practice.  On time as usual, we loaded up and drove to the village.  We were over an hour early and Kiki and I decided it was time to try the infamous juice bags the corner shop sold.  It was brutally hot and both of us were dreading being on the water, but as it was the last day we sucked it up.  

Ruth and the rest of the crew trickled in and we all received our race day t-shirts and hats.  Amazingly she was able to pull everything together and although we don't look too pretty in the boat, we'll all be matching on Tuesday!

It was our first day in the race boat and the slim wooden boat was a lot easier to move than the clunky metal one we had been practicing in.  Although it was leaking from all the seams, we rowed along and finally got into a pattern.  If all the village women actually show up for the race, it should be great!

Katie, Kiki and I sporting the new team t-shirts in front of our team banner!

Practice ended around 6 and we drove back to Mark's, where Fulvia was meeting us for dinner.  Brad had offered to cook the night before and Kiki had insisted we come over.  We biked the 15 minutes to their place and found Brad exhausted from a long day of teaching (he teaches english on the weekends). While he had gone to the market and picked up everything for dinner, the message about actually cooking hadn't gotten through so the ladies picked up the cutting boards, turned on the stove and in 30 minutes we had a great meal of glass noodles and veggie stir fry.  We have all decided that each person will host dinner once a week as its fun to cook and we need some time away from our go-to restaurants.

We ended up on their porch, drinking Spy wine and talking.  Thon, the bar owner next door, invited us over for a drink and by 11, Fulvia and I hopped on our bikes to head back into town.  Because ASEM is around the corner, November 5-7, falang curfew is becoming more enforced and I didn't want any trouble getting home. We took our time and finally, after avoiding swerving motorbikes and random road closures, made it home.  

I am happy to report that Sok Dee made it through her first day at home with no accidents and has been sleeping through the night.  Much better behaved with mom than with Aunt Kiki!

Fulvia left this morning for Vang Vieng and promised to keep in touch.  It was a great couch surfing experience for both of us and I was happy to show someone around what is quickly becoming home.

I'm off to Thailand this afternoon for some shopping with Viengmany, who is in Vientiane for the festival.  It should be interesting to see what its like as I've been told you can get anything there. There's even an english movie theater! Like anything with Viengmany, it is sure to be an adventure so stay tuned and I'l tell you all about it!

Peace, Love, Laos!

Mekong sunset after a long afternoon on the river. 

18 Hours in LP

Luang Prabang is gorgeous and it's obvious why it's the number one tourist destination in Laos.  Set on the Mekong River, there are opportunities for amazing sunsets and picturesque temples.

Our morning was spent visiting a wat and temple where World Education manages grant money to sustain restoration to the art and buildings.  We didn't stay long, but it was interesting to walk around the temple and meet the monks that have been taught wood carving and other skills through the grant.  

Although I would have wanted to stay longer, I wanted to get back to Vientiane for the weekend and know that I'll be back up in LP another time.  Certainly when Mom and Dad come to visit!

Bounsong and I on the temple grounds in Luang Prabang. 

Laughing Kids and Metal Balls

Up and out early for our drive to Luang Prabang.  

Although the road is serpentine, the views make up for any feelings of motion sickness.  The large limestone outcroppings look like they belong on another planet and driving among the clouds is beautiful.

We pulled into LP around 1 and found a pho restaurant for lunch.  We ate quickly and went to check into our guesthouse to change into presentable clothing before going to the orphanage school.  We were visiting to witness the distribution of new school uniforms and toiletries, a quarterly event sponsored by a World Ed donor.  After touring the school, the 540 students were called one at a time to receive their package of new supplies.  I was given the task of handing them to the thankful students, who smiled and either muttered khop chai or thank you to me while bowing.  When I switched with Bounsong, I headed outside to try and talk with some of the kids.  Although they all learn english, they were very shy and only a couple wanted to say hello.  They were all intrigued when I introduced myself as Phetmany though.

Nothing more refreshing than fresh coconut (when Diet Coke isn't an option)

The school director brought us all fresh coconuts as the distribution room was getting very hot and congested.  We ended up leaving around 4:30 in order to change and return for the dinner celebration they had planned for us.

Bounsong took me on a quick driving tour of Luang Prabang, which is the #1 tourist destination in Laos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the old capital.  Nestled on the banks of the Mekong and Kham rivers, the scenery is spectacular and the entire waterfront is lined with gorgeous guesthouses and restaurants.  

We drove back to the school for dinner and were invited to play a ball game with them.  The point of the game is to throw your heavy metal ball closest to the small ball and knock out your opponents ball in the process.  Its really hard and there are certain ways you have to hold your hand, release the ball and position your body.  Basically I was a total failure but it provided a couple good laughs.  

I think I had the positioning right?

Dinner consisted of the normal staples of sticky rice, boiled chicken, fish soup and morning glory.  And of course, BeerLao.  I nibbled away, but am still dead set on abstaining from sticky rice for a couple days.  Before the drinking got too competitive, we excused ourselves and I was dropped off at the night market to wander around.  Luang Prabang was the original night market but now Vientiane has one daily and its very similar.  The only difference is the number of tourists.  They seem to swarm to the fresh fruit shakes, punjabi pants and pad thai buffets.

I explored the market for a bit before heading back to the guest house to settle in and hopefully get to bed early.  Tor and I are roommates tonight, so I'm trying to follow the plot of this crazy Thai movie we're watching.  Thaillywood certainly has a twisted sense of morbid humor!

Riverside Party Town

Having decided not to pack on Monday night, I woke up early to throw some stuff into a bag and head to the office.  When I arrived I was told we weren't leaving until 11, so I got on the computer and served as Mark's witness for his presidential ballot.  

By the time 11:40 rolled around, we packed up the car and went to pick up Bounsong's friend Phet, who was joining us on our trip.  Phet works at UNICEF and had extra vacation time to take before November, so a couple days on the road was just what she was looking for.  We stopped for lunch before starting the journey to Vang Vieng, the halfway point to Luang Prabang and our pit stop for the night.  

The view: Vang Vieng's main attraction

The ride to Vang Vieng was only three hours and we arrived just in time to catch a beautiful sunset.  The city is known for its amazing scenery and flourishing backpacker culture.  While everyone else headed back to the guest house for dinner, I decided to explore the city and picked  a restaurant called "the other side."

The other side jets out over the river and is composed of cushion lined open air tatami areas.  Noticing that I was alone, a waiter came over to talk to me and was impressed by my very rough Lao.  When he left, four guys at the "booth" next door invited me to come join them and thats when my night with Aaron, Dylan, Matt and Danny began.

Having met at UCLA and worked at the same summer camp, these best friends were thoroughly enjoying their first trip to South East Asia.  We ended up hijacking the stereo system and dancing to all the camp favorites.  Camp people never change!

Buckets of mysterious drinks were brought to our table and we finally left after the place had closed.  Being gentlemen, I was walked home to prepare for the 5 hour drive to Luang Prabang in the morning.  

Between the laid back atmosphere and the opportunities to rock climb, kayak and tube, Vang Vieng will certainly be seeing my face again!